By Haidee V. Eugenio

 

Palau, home of the amazing Rock Islands, offers so much more than scuba diving, snorkeling with jellyfishes, or being the location for the 10th season of the reality TV show, “Survivor.”

But first, a lesson in geography. Palau is located about 600 miles east of the Philippines and about 1,000 miles southwest of Guam.

If you live on Guam, you could use 25,000 United Airline miles to and from Palau, just like I did.

Palau has some 340 islands, of which only nine are inhabited by some 22,000 people. It is not a part of the United States. However, it is a constitutional government in free association with the United States.

While this pristine paradise is far from continental U.S., they use the mighty U.S. dollar and English is a commonly used language.

Conservation is big in Palau. Just how big? In 2003, Palau banned shark finning. It was also the first country to create a shark sanctuary in 2009. Six years later, it created the largest fully protected, no-take zone in the world.

And for history buffs, Palau’s Peleliu island was a scene of intense fighting in 1944 between American and Japanese forces during World War II.

Now that you’re quite familiar with Palau, here are some highlights from my own Palauan trip that did not necessarily require underwater explorations. Come join me in saying, “Alii!”

1. Rock Islands from up above

No Palau visit is complete without experiencing any or many of the 250 to 300 unique island formations collectively known as the Rock Islands. It’s the crown jewel of the island republic’s tourism.

If you think the only way to experience it is by diving, snorkeling, kayaking, or via a boat tour, think again. Marvel at their full glory from a higher angle. Hop on a helicopter for a tour.

I shared the afternoon tour with a couple from Czech Republic. They traveled far to get to Palau, and didn’t want to miss this aerial tour.

From this high vantage point, you get to cover a vast area from an entirely different angle. The limestone and coral uprises are undoubtedly a mesmerizing sight to behold so it’s no wonder they were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They’re so beautiful, and I told myself how lucky I was to be even in their presence.

Palau tourism posters and brochures feature many of Rock Islands’ tiny islets, some resembling green mushrooms rising from crystal clear blue water. The most photographed are the cluster called the 70 Islands, the Arch, Jellyfish Lake, Milky Way, Blue Corner, Blue Hole and German Channel.

Heed the pilot’s warning to hold your camera tight, unless you’re ready to lose it to the vast ocean down below.

From up there, you also get to see the whole of Palau’s capital of Koror, the Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge, and countless numbers of blue lagoons, lush vegetation, and crystalline white sand beaches.

2. Jellyfish Lake

Jellyfish Lake used to be a part of most tours going to the Rock Islands. For wondrous reason. You get to swim with about 20 million harmless jellyfish in one lake.

But the lake’s popularity with international tourists took a toll on its ecological wonders. The jellyfish population has dwindled dangerously low and experts say it could take years to recover. So these days, tour companies have either limited or stopped their package tours to the lake.

Check back again in a few years. For now, enjoy Jellyfish Lake from above.

3. Micronesia’s oldest museum

 

Back on the ground, visit Belau National Museum.

Built in 1955, it serves as the oldest repository of ancient artifacts in Micronesia. If “Belau” sounds familiar, it’s because it is Palau’s traditional name.

Step back in time as you stand in front of a traditional Palauan bai or men’s house. An authentic, full-sized sample of this enduring cultural icon stands proudly on the grounds of the Belau National Museum.

A bai is a traditional meeting place for village clan chiefs deciding on matters important to their communities.

In keeping with traditions, building this replica didn’t make use of a single nail or metal screw. Rather, it  was built in the traditional style of wood joinery and rope lashing. Its roof was thatched from the nipa palm.

Come closer. The interior beams showcase carved and painted pictographs that speak of Palauan legends and histories. So much to appreciate about unique island art, culture and traditions.

4. Largest, tallest waterfall

My adventures were not all up in the air. I took a long drive from Koror to Babeldaob, connected by the Japan-Palau Friendship Bridge. Did I mention it was the first time I’ve driven a right-hand car?

The scenic drive was followed by a hike in the forest, with some muddy parts, to reach Ngardmau Waterfall.

It’s the largest and most photographed waterfall in Palau. It flows from Palau’s tallest peak, the nearly 800-feet high Mount Ngerchelchuus.

You know you’re almost there when you start hiking a trail parallel to the river. And much closer when you reach a bridge.

The waterfall is a great respite. After the hike, have some coconut juice from any of the friendly vendors.

5. Hop on a monorail, or try a zip line

A clunky monorail has found its way to modern times, in the middle of Palau’s jungle. You can access the Ngardmau Waterfall on foot or by this monorail I’m talking about.

If you enjoy a peaceful nature hike, with as much rest stops as you like, then do away with the monorail.

There’s also a zipline in the jungle, but I didn’t see anyone using it at the time. Maybe when it’s your time to visit Palau, there’d be more adventurous souls to join you as you zoom to new heights.

6. Washington, D.C. in Palau

From Ngardmau Waterfall, continue driving along a scenic route for another 20 minutes to reach Palau’s National Capital Complex.

You’d be surprised to see a huge complex resembling the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C., so far away in the Pacific.

The place look deserted when I got there. I wasn’t a selfie fan so I asked the only person I saw, who was pruning grasses, to take my photo in front of the complex. Actually, he took several photos, just to be sure.

7. Drive around in a pink Mustang

A friend from Saipan, Nace, treated me to a Pink Mustang rental car. I only did what any tourist does.

To say that the car turned heads is an understatement, especially when I got a bit stuck in Koror traffic.

I got to share the afternoon stroll with fellow journalist, Bernadette, and her daughter, Mayumi, who made me watch parts of “Moana” while on vacation.

8. Lakefront and beach bars

What better way to cap a sun-drenched day of hiking than relaxing and hanging out at beach bars and lakefront properties?

Drop Off became my instant favorite for its atmosphere and food.

9. Dinner on a dive boat

They say if eating (and some drinking), sleeping and diving are the only three things you want to do on your vacation, a dive charter on a liveaboard is perfect for you. My vacation wasn’t perfect but it was close enough.

On my second night, I got invited to a liveaboard dive boat anchored off an area near the port, for dinner. This air-conditioned boat has a spacious deck, a bar, a fully functioning kitchen, a library and TV area. It could only mean food and fun when the dinner host is the chef. I called it “dinner with the Brits.”

10. The people

My trip to Palau was a short one but it was remarkable because of its natural beauty and because of the warmth of the people and the joy of reconnecting with friends I haven’t seen in years and are now in Palau.

I only scratched the surface of what this tropical paradise has to offer its visitors. Next time I visit Palau, I would surely come up with a whole new set of things to do and places to see.